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Popular fabric for spring and summer: Can you name all of them? (Part I)

Fabrics have many names, such as weaving method and processing method.

There are some fabrics that are difficult to understand just by hearing their names.

Do you know all of the popular fabrics for spring and summer?

When it comes to SS collection, Cotton, linen, and rayon are probably the three most recommended materials.


Highly absorbent and breathable, it is widely used for T-shirts, shirts, blouses, and pants.


Linen has a crisp and firm texture that absorbs sweat and is breathable, making it ideal for summer items. Linen is also strong, so it can be used not only for clothing but also for bags.


It has a smooth texture with a sense of fall, and feels cool to the touch.

It is also highly absorbent, so it is a recommended material for blouse dresses and loungewear.

These are natural and recycled fibers, but in recent years, many polyester fabrics with water-absorbing, quick-drying and cooling functions have been developed. While natural fibers have their advantages, there are many choices of synthetic fibers in terms of added value in terms of functionality.

But there are more than just these 3 basics fabrics. How about others? Can you distinguish all of them? How are they called in Japanese? Let’s find out togher!

Lawn (ローン)

Lawn is a thin, slightly transparent plain weave fabric that is perfect for blouses and shirts in spring and summer. The use of fine 60-100 count yarns produces a thin, delicate fabric with an elegant sheen.

The name “Lawn” comes from a thin hemp fabric originating from the French town of Lawn. The texture of this fabric was recreated in cotton, and is now called Lawn.

Materials used include cotton, cotton-polyester blends, and linen.

12383 Cotton Linen Slub Lawn

Slub yarn is used to give the surface an uneven nuance, and linen is also used, making this fabric perfect for spring and summer.

It is full of sheerness and will be good for blouses.

12383 80s×50s綿/麻スラブローン[生地] SUNWELL(サンウェル)


Voile is a thin, plain weave fabric with a coarse weave and a transparent feel. It uses strongly twisted yarns, so the fabric is relatively firm and resilient.

It is very breathable and has a cool texture, so it is recommended for summer shirts, blouses, and dresses.

The word “voile” is French for the English word “veil,” which means a thin cloth covering a woman’s face or head. I’m sure everyone has heard of the “veil” in wedding veils. So the name “voile” comes from that veil.

1247 80SZ voile wide width, fluffy finish

It has a moderate translucency and a pleasantly fluffy touch.

1247 80SZボイル W巾 ふんわり仕上げ[生地] VANCET
1247 80SZボイル W巾 ふんわり仕上げ

Crepe de chine (クレープ)

“Crepe” is a general term for plain weaves that use strongly twisted yarns to create unique wrinkles (creases) on the surface of the fabric, like shrinkage.

When high-twisted yarns are used for the weft and refined after weaving, the high-twisted yarns try to regain their twist and the surface of the cloth becomes wrinkled.

It is generally recommended for summer stoles, blouses, and other summer clothing fabrics.

The word “crepe” means fine wrinkles.

KKF8070-58 Satin crepe, wide width, elegant luster 

Elegant as a blouse or skirt

KKF8070-58 サテンクレープ広巾[生地] 宇仁繊維
KKF8070-58 サテンクレープ広巾

Wrinkle Crepe (Yoryu)

Wrinkle Crepe (Yoryu) is a kind of lightweight cloth similar to silk crepe, made with highly twisted yarn. It  is a kind of crepe fabric with long wrinkles on the surface of the fabric in the vertical direction. It has high water absorbency and good ventilation, so even if you sweat, it dries quickly and keeps your skin smooth.

It is the perfect fabric for the humid summer.

The weft yarn is made of non-twisted yarn and the weft yarn is made of high-twisted yarn.

40×20 Yoryu (Wrinkle Crepe) Washer Processing

The crisp touch will make you feel comfortable in summer.

84400 40x20 楊柳ワッシャー[生地] VANCET
84400 40×20 楊柳ワッシャー

Ripple cloth(リップル)

Ripple is a process that gives rippled wrinkles and unevenness to the surface of a fabric, and fabrics that have been rippled are called ripples.

Ripple is an English word meaning “shrinkage”. It is a thin fabric such as cotton or rayon that is treated with a caustic soda solution, which causes a strong contraction and gives the fabric an uneven appearance.

It is ideal for summer blouses, shirts, dresses, skirts, etc., since the area in contact with the skin is small and it prevents the fabric from clinging to the skin.

83032 Ripplecloth Basic Series [Fabric] VANCET

The thin, non-clinging texture is perfect for shirts, etc.

83032 リップルクロス ベーシックシリーズ[生地] VANCET


Seersucker is a fabric with wavy wrinkles appearing as stripes on the surface of the fabric. It is often used for men’s summer shirts, pants, pajamas, and children’s jinbei.

Two types of yarns with different tensions are arranged in the warp to create fine wrinkles on the surface due to differences in the degree of contraction.

The ripple fabric also has an uneven surface, but the wrinkles are caused by post-processing while seersucker has a firmer texture.

12838 Cotton Blend Knit Seersucker (Coolmax Fabric) [Fabric] SUNWELL

Coolmax fabric with excellent water absorption and quick-drying properties!

12838 コットンブレンドニットサッカー(クールマックスファブリック)[生地] SUNWELL(サンウェル)



Knowing the characteristics of each fabric will help you choose the right fabric for your collection.Of course this list will continue, so stay tuned for part II!

 Check out ApparelX Textile Products page for more information about popular fabrics.

Hi guys, this is Jane, the editor of ApparelX News. As a foreigner living in Tokyo, I hope my posts will help international readers get an overview about Japanese fashion industry as well as Japanese culture!

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